Whiling away the dusk

I’m cruising along the Mississippi on the American Queen paddle steamer from New Orleans and each evening the sky burns from bright orange to pale pink as the sun sizzles into the horizon over the chocolate brown river, carrying tonnes of silt to the Gulf of Mexico, shines like it’s silver-plated.

I am following the river down the highway through the cradle of the civil war, is the next line in a confused song about going to Graceland.

This seven-day tour of history through the cradle of the Civil War stops at towns, cities and former enormous and powerful plantations dotted along the mighty Mississippi.

We start alongside the French Quarter where the river banks have formed a natural levee over thousands of years and were the reason this part of the city escaped damage during Hurricane Katrina. Across the river industrial ports and large ships are docked and on the busy waterway between river barges push up to a hundred carriages laden with coal and crops.

This working river starts some 3700km north in Minnesota near the Great Lakes and if it could tell tales it would speak of wars, strongholds, slavery, dividing lines and places of terrible tragedy where friends fought friends as Confederates and Unionists from 1861-1865 when 600,000 American soldiers died.

I’m looking forward to exploring this part of history, as the little steam-powered calliope sounds our departure tune and the paddle wheel rolls us gently upstream while I sit on the veranda outside my room, French doors flung open, sipping a sauvignon blanc and chatting to my neighbours as we watch the sun melt. These are more boutique hotel rooms than cabins, with plush down pillows on scrumptious beds, antique furnishings, a tiffany lamp harking back to the 1920s when steam boating was in its hey-day. The addition of flat screen TVs and DVD players are a sneaky touch. Most of the passengers onboard are war and history-buffs and all of them great travellers. I’m delighted to find over half have visited New Zealand.

Houmas House - open for lunch and dinner

The mighty Mississippi is a law unto herself. She flows as she pleases, carving her own path, cutting off bends and even entire plantations only 100 years ago leaving landowners waking in the state of Mississippi instead of Louisiana where they were the night before. A few of these elegant ‘Scarlett and Rhett’ homes still exist on former sugar and cotton plantations with Houmas House being the best example I saw stocked with priceless antiques and a highly acclaimed restaurant.

Delta plains stretch for miles and fields are lined with oaks as we glide easily into Mark Twain country. The Civil War ended the famous writer’s life as a steam boat pilot on these waters and he turned his acerbic wit to telling great yarns, coming out with cynical quotes like, ‘It was wonderful to find America, but it would have been more wonderful to miss it.’

Samuel Clemens took his pen-name from a river measurement: mark twain equals two fathoms, or three metres. (I must have missed that day in English.) So with my own copy of Life on the Mississippi (the forerunner to Huckleberry Finn) I try to keep up with his random, wry and often hilarious adventures on these same waters 125 years ago.

He lived and breathed the Mississippi, coming to know every nook and cranny of its ever twisting, hazardous ways to steer a steamer down the inky black in the dead of night, first as a trainee ‘cub’ then as an accomplished pilot. Pilots of his day had to be able to draw the entire journey from memory, with every landmark and potential pitfall, to pass their pilot’s exam (which he did) and earn the prestige that went with it.

A fine antebellum home

Fortunately there are no such dangers these days as the kilometres disappear gently behind us and we dock in Natchez at first light the next day, site of one of the most intense Civil War battles due to its importance as a strategic port.

This is not stereotypical America. There are no fast food restaurants or theme parks within view, no mega shopping malls or high rise buildings, just small-town heartland reaching down to the silence of the river which today is running so low its silty banks reveal the concrete retaining mats leaning up the sides.

It hasn’t rained in months so the locals are thrilled the skies have opened today. I’m none too pleased but decide to go exploring anyway. It’s Sunday and eerily quiet, but the First Presbyterian Church is a must-see (even if not attending a service) with 500 photographs hanging in an upstairs gallery documenting over 100 years from the Civil War to WWII. I gaze at snaps of families and friends, formal portraits of children and notable people and am particularly fascinated by the wealthy black families who were slaves before the Civil War and land owners after it, owning their own slaves.

Oh for a spare few thousand dollars...

The next morning in Vicksburg the sky is grey but one bright spot is the Attic Gallery bursting with literally a million pieces of art, jewellery, sculpture and eclectic bits and bobs. I’m looking forward to buying a piece of original art as it’s the one thing I wish I’d done from every amazing country I’ve been to. Unfortunately I fall for a US$3000 Kennith Humphrey painting of a black lady with a very large bottom, but after about an hour of rifling through canvases I come upon a fabulous painting of jazz trumpeter Blue Mitchell painted by David Baum. I can almost hear it. Apparently my purchase might cover his rent this week, which is a nice thought as I stagger out with a painting the size of half a door figuring out how to get it home.

I disagree with Mark Twain, it’s wonderful they found America. Well, this part at least.

Have a look at the steam piano (calliope) being played on the back of the steamship here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZRveGv8rGU

On new reservations on these voyages, every second person gets to travel half price:

Photo credit Mike Murphy

Voyage PLA27 aboard “Plancius”
18-nights voyage to the Falkland Islands, South Georgia and the Antarctic Peninsula
04 – 22 February 2011

Cruise fares:
Quadruple cabin: US $ 10,950 for the first person, and, the second person 50 % off = US $ 5,475
Twin cabin: US $ 13,290 for the first person, and, the second person 50 % off = US $ 6,645
Superior cabin: US $ 15,450 for the first person, and, the second person 50 % off = US $ 7,725

Voyage PLA28 aboard “Plancius”
10-nights voyage to the Antarctic Peninsula
22 February – 04 March 2011

Cruise fares:
Quadruple cabin: US $ 6,390 for the first person, and, the second person 50 % off = US $ 3,195
Twin cabin: US $ 7,750 for the first person, and, the second person 50 % off = US $ 3,875
Superior cabin: US $ 8,950 for the first person, and, the second person 50 % off = US $ 4,475

Voyage PLA30 aboard “Plancius”
11-nights voyage to the Polar Circle and Antarctic Peninsula
15 March – 26 March 2011

Cruise fares:
Quadruple cabin: US $ 6,150 for the first person, and, the second person 50 % off = US $ 3,075

Twin cabin: US $ 7,490 for the first person, and, the second person 50 % off = US $ 3,745

Superior cabin: US $ 8,490 for the first person, and, the second person 50 % off = US $ 4,245

These cruise fares rates and discounts apply to every party of two persons booked on the same voyage (first pays full fare and the second person receives 50 % discount).

The Great Wall of China

I haven’t yet been to China and it’s certainly right up there on my list. If for the sole reason that there is a big drawing-pinless gap on my world map. But ever since Philip Bailey sang in his high pitch about ‘walking on the Chineeeeeeeese wall’ sometime in the long distant 80′s (?) I’ve wanted to do that. (Click here for a blast from the past courtesy of YouTube.)

The trip is 12 days from June 1, 2010. It includes Beijing, Xian and old Shanghai, the Terracotta Warriors and a meander one of the famous Great Wall of China. You’ll sail the Yangtze River through the scenic Three Gorges and impressive Three Gorges Dam, visit small villages and modern metropolises (metropoli?), take photos of ancient history and futuristic technology on the state-of-the-art Viking Century Sun. It can accommodate only 300 guests and all rooms have balconies so you slip away, put your feet up and relax as the scenery floats past.

The price includes return flights ex Auckland on Cathay Pacific, 12 days ‘Imperial Jewels of China’, one night in Hong Kong and transfers in Shanghai and Beijing.

See ya later alligator, as Danny would say…

*Sorry folks, this deal was in 2010.

Luxury on the Yangtze - Viking Century Sun

This amazing state of America was owned by Russia until 1867 but didn’t become an official United State until 1959. It is very different from any other state in the US. I mean you’re hardly likely to see bears wandering out of the forest to catch a salmon in a Californian river. And if you do you should call a policeman.

Salmon sashimi anyone?

I did a 7-day cruise onboard Holland America Line and saw some of the most spectacular scenery on earth. We did a slow cruise up the Inside Passage (no I’m not going to labour the gag) which includes the towns of Juneau, Sitka, Ketchikan and Skagway as well as Glacier Bay National Park. This was a real highlight.

Margerie Glacier

The 104 km fjord meets in a cul-de-sac of glaciers and is also unreachable by road – although you can fly there.

We didn’t get off the ship to join the hikers or kayakers, rather did a half-hour slow donut, taking photos and listening to the cracks that echo like rifle shots across the water just before the blue-tinged ice calves into the sea with a roar. Margerie Glacier is the main one that comes down to the water’s edge – actually it reaches 30m below sea level. It’s also 76 m above sea level – about 25 stories high! Whales also play in this area and we nearly capsized the ship rushing to one side just in time to see one breach, which I’m told is rare in cooler waters. Mind you, after a few days at sea seeing whales all around us we got very blaze. Poor things. Try as they might to show off rounding up fish and gulping up through the middle of the frenzy.

As with all cruises, shore excursions should be booked as soon as possible once you get onboard, or better yet, add them at the time of booking so you don’t miss out on something as remarkable as dog sledding or taking a ski plane to see those bears in the river catching their own sashimi as American Bald Eagles sit beady-eyed hoping for a morsel. Only limited numbers can hop on these planes and sleds.

Onboard there is loads of very good food. Several dining options from posh restaurants with a couple of dress-up nights to pizza bars. On the deck the kiwis took on the Belgians at a game of cut throat shuffleboard and after losing the 1st (warm up) game, we whipped them soundly. Of course a mighty shuffleboard win should be celebrated by a drink with an umbrella in it on the deck, but even though it was summer in Alaska, you can only expect temperatures in the mid to high teens celcius. And d’you know that Juneau is officially the wettest city in the United States? (Say that outloud. It’s my terribly funny d’you know/Juneau gag.)

Juneau from my ship balcony

Well it is, so bring your coat, a beanie and your hiking boots so you can spend the day pottering through the towns, patting husky dogs, buying Russian dolls (and there are gazillions of them here), trying on Daniel Boone hats and popping in for a beer at the local before dinner is served onboard.

I bought 4 sets of these cuties

Harvey World Travel have some cheap deals on cruises at the mo – here’s the one up the Inside Passage on Holland America Line’s Volendam ship including Glacier Bay National Park, Tracey Arm Fjord, Juneau, Skagway, Glacier Bay, Ketchikan travelling in May and September.

Here’s a link to a few other cruises that nned to be booked in now for next year as the prices (and don’t forget you’re not just talking 7 to 14 nights accommodation but all your meals and onboard entertainment too) are really very good.

Or if you’re in NZ just pick up the phone and have a chat about the amazing offers on Alaskan cruises on 0800 84 84 80.

Wonder if Delta Dawn is their fave karaoke song?

Some cruise ships are specifically designed for families and this is one of them. The Pacific Sun is an excellent foray for getting your feet wet in the world of cruising. They offer activities aplenty to entertain your tribe from ages 3 to 17 so you can chillax onboard knowing they are having a ball without you. In fact some parents even complain that their kids don’t want to spend enough time with them but prefer the clubs!

And you're not the one who cleans up!

Turtle Cove is for 3 to 6 year olds. They’ll get into arts and crafts, birthday parties, pyjama parties, ice cream parties, dances and talent shows. And you don’t have to clean up the mess.

Shark Attack is for 7 to 10 year olds. Their own club with kids their age doing things like scavenger hunts all over the ship, more parties – like pizza and ice cream, talent shows, Playstation and a ship tour.

HQ is two clubs, one for 11 to 14 year olds and a separate club for 15 to 17. They have their own lounge for hanging out, competitions, karaoke, hip hop classes, mocktail and casino nights,  dance parties and late night movies.

Meanwhile, you on the other hand, are scheduling a hectic day of spa treatments, gym workouts, leisurely lunch by the pool, followed by a quick shuffleboard competition with your other half and finally getting the chance to read that book you’ve been meaning to get to all year with no little voices asking when lunch is ready. Or better still, go with another couple of families and all the kids can hang together while your shuffleboard tourny takes on a whole new level of competitiveness!

I'll have a drink with an umbrella in, thanks

If this sounds like you, then here’s a really cheap deal to fly one way and cruise between Auckland and the Gold Coast. You cruise over in 4 days then have 3 nights at the Breakfree Beach Point in Surfers Paradise. It’s 50m from the beach but near the shops and cafes and of course you’ll have to visit at least one of the theme parks: Dreamworld, Seaworld, Movieworld, Wet’n'Wild, Banzai Bungey, the Sling Shot or Flycoaster. Then you fly back on Qantas to Auckland.

Click here to jump to Harvey World Travel for details on this 7-night fly/cruise intinerary departing Auckland 3 July 2010 – right when the winter is upon us and the Gold Coast is paradise. Or in NZ call 0800 84 84 80.

I’ve done 5 cruises now on everything from paddle steamers in the Mississippi, to luxury in Alaska and a rollicking party ship in the Caribbean. They were all brilliant in their own way, so the biggest tip is knowing what kind of experience you want and who you want to have it with.

Let's get the party started!

This blog is about the rollicking latter.

How about this for a fun (and quite possibly dangerous!) time… Grab your girlfriends (or boyfriends for that matter) and hit the seas on an all-inclusive cruise from Sydney to Auckland in March next year.

You’ll fly over (for a shopping weekend) and spend 2 nights at the stylish Breakfree on George Hotel right near Pitt St and all the shops you could want. Hit the town, buy up large in the summer sales, then cruise back on P&O’s Pacific Sun for 4 fun days at sea where restaurants, bars and dancing under the stars is all you’ll have time for – and no taxi’s home!

The Pacific Sun has just had a recent multi-million dollar makeover. And unlike days gone by when you were assigned a table at a specific hour for dinner, this time it’s up to you. Your Choice Dining is their cry. Don’t mind if I do: how bout the buffet or pizzaria or a la carte Burgundy restaurant, or dress up with an excuse to wear those killer heels you bought in Sydney and try the library/turned fine-dining seafood restaurant.

After you’ve had dinner, all new Las Vegas-style revues and the adults-only Sit Down Comedy Club shows are on, or you could a soak in the whirl-pool spa. Or if you need to work off the never ending supply of food, a vigorous bout of synchronised swimming in the 2 pools or a gym workout with views of the Pacific Ocean will make room for the next 3-course meal.

Watch the world go by from the Oasis

Inside cabins are great if price is the main issue and you intend to be outside on the decks, reading a book, sipping drinks with umbrellas in and generally lounging about. An outside cabin is great for watching the world go by from the comfort of your twin (or quad) room, or splash out entirely and get a balcony suite for some quiet te ta te and a pre-dinner cocktail.

Prices (including flights, hotel, 4-night cruise with all meals and entertainment) start at $999 per person in an Inside Twin Cabin or $1099 for an outside. And if you really want a slumber party, book a quad room from $949.

If you’re in NZ and fancy rounding up your mates for this deal, click here to Harvery World Travel for more info or phone 0800 75 87 87 and book before 31 December for the March 20 cruise. Oh, and don’t forget to tell them Blogger at Large sent you and get some duty free vouchers for your troubles.

Ask them about adding on the Fashion Secrets Tour in Sydney too for $114. You’ll walk through the upmarket enclaves in Paddington, and check out the established designers to the up and coming of Sydney’s best kept fashion secrets.
Includes: Gift bag, VIP discounts, lunch and a glass of wine/soft drink.

Ferns growing thru the tunnel

But like the intrepid journier that I am, I discovered (actually my colleague discovered and I am claiming it) Canal Saint-Martin where you can take a boat from Parc de la Villette to Paris Marina Arsenal or vice versa and spend a couple of hours. We started at Arsenal for a 2.30pm departure along the 4.5km canal which immediately took us under the streets and into the dark. Just the faint light of sky-lights in the road spaced about 100m apart and in the distance I could make out the end of the tunnel.

Canal Saint-Martin

1930s war-time French music played on the open-top canal boat as we cruised into the first lock and passersby stopped to hang over the railings and watch us watching them. We all photographed each other and continued on our way past tree-lined streets with kids playing table tennis, old ladies yakking on park benches and bridges being drawn up to allow us through.

Looking for the pingpong ball

A cute French girl (well she was hardly going to be a kiwi I suppose) was our narrator in both French and English and even gave us a copy of the music that I just can’t get enough of. It smacks of frilly aprons and cocktails, quaffed hair and red lipstick and men in pilot jackets with short back and sides.

Deck chairs on the Lido deck

My sister and I headed off from Miami on the ‘fun ship’ Carnival Liberty to swan about the Caribbean for a week. (I know!) She has abandoned husband and kids and we’re off to pretrend we’re 20-something without a car as we visit Cozumel Mexico, Grand Cayman and Ocho Rios Jamaica.

This ship has a totally different clientele to others I’ve been on. Carnival’s tag line is ‘fun ships’ and there’s not a mobility scooter in sight. It’s all honeymooners, college friends, high school groups, families with little kids and just a handful of retirerees on this monster ship of 3500 passengers and 1200 crew with 3 pools and a gazillion deck chairs laid around them. There’s a big screen TV over the main pool on the Lido deck for late night movies and concert DVDs under the stars and below that is a stage where DJs and live bands play into the wee small hours.

For kids and energetic adults there’s a crazy slide that interestingly ends right beside the pool (not in it). But don’t get me wrong, it’s not all about yoof – there’s a well equipped gym, a spa for a bit of pampering and a casino which begins each week-long cruise stocked with about US$3million. (More about that later..)

Johnny Depp anyone?

Of course a cruise wouldn’t be complete without the all-inclusive and never ending supply of food. There’s a whole deck with a buffet  for breakfast that becomes lunch and then morphs into dinner. There’s a kiosk pizza bar, a nacho counter and soft serve ice cream stations that always have a few kids lined up. Then there’s the fancy sit-down restaurant with tables for just you and your group (you’re not assigned to sit next to strangers). Pip and I have a little table for 2 where Sandra from South Africa and Mitchell from Indonesia look after us. They became friends after a couple of days and we’ve taken to debriefing our day and getting their advice on what to do tomorrow.

But that’s enough for now. More later – I’m off to get the cocktail of the day….

Viking is famous for its European river itineraries, but newly added is the enticing sounding Yangtze which meanders through rural China and also includes Beijing, Xian and Shanghai and wisks you off each day to some cultural doings (or not – its your choice). Try Peking Duck where it was invented and see some amazing acrobatics that only those petite Chinese gymnasts can do.

But I was even more enthused by the thought of the Russia and Ukraine voyages with a few nights in St Petersburg and Moscow. This is pitched to those who have seen the major cities in Europe and now want something different. Learn a bit of history and get amongst the Cossaks and Vikings, visit ancient towns, open-air museums. Visit the Kremlin and Red Square, or Kiev and the Black Sea. Ooohh I feel a Russian dance coming on….

AND … here’s the drumroll bit … I am reliably informed that unlike in the past when the last to book got the best price, the whole tourism industry is undergoing a bit of a correction and now the earlybirds are being rewarded. SO that means, these prices will be the lowest you’ll get. Word. Right now you can save $1500 per person if you book and pay by 18 December.

Viking Cruises are on 0800 447 913 in NZ or 1800 829 138 in Australia.

Get the party started!

My sister and I headed off for a 1-week cruise around the Caribbean from Miami to Cozumel, Mexico then on to Grand Cayman, Ocho Rios Jamaica and back to Miami on the latter. We went on Carnival Cruises – known as the ‘party ships’. Here’s a link to my cruise story in the NZ Herald.

And yep, we’d do it again for sure!